Getting Ready

Back in August 2008 we decided we were ready for a new family experience - something different and exciting but a tangible challenge. Both Christopher and Luke have always wanted to do an overnight hike ("tramp" in NZ) and have been aware of the many tracks available for such trips including the Heaphy Track. David in his previous life had actually walked some of these legendary tracks and was game for another experience. Anything that meant physical activity for the family got me on board!

I must backtrack a bit for those of you who don't know about New Zealand's famed "Great Walks". It is a collection of nine premier walking tracks through some of the best scenery in New Zealand, the most popular touristed ones include Abel Tasman and Milford Tracks. The tracks and the associated huts are managed by Dept of Conservation (DOC) and are kept to a very high standard. There is a charge per night for use of the huts for adults but children are free. However anyone using the hut needs to be booked in advance to ensure an available bunk awaits you after the day's walk.


The Heaphy Track is one of these DOC tracks in the northwest corner of the South Island in Kahurangi National Park. It is billed as a minimum 3 night 4 day walk which takes you 78 km through mountainous areas, forests and beach. It is the longest of the Great Walks. Got your attention yet?


However as I was saying we made our decision to "knock the b* off" ( as the late national icon Sir Edmund Hillary said about Everest) during our summer of 2009. The bookings were made and the planning began - at least mentally. Realistically, sometime in November or December we started to prepare. What would we need to survive for 4 days in the NZ wilderness? How much can two boys aged 15 and 11 actually carry for 4 days - not to mention the youth-challenged parents! Could David manage to keep his business going without any internet or cell phone access for 4 days??


Bit by bit the plans came together. Fortunately Christopher is in a bit of a growth spurt and by the time January came around he exceeded his mother's carrying capacity! Luke is never short on enthusiasm and was keen to carry whatever was needed. Once we had the food and essential supplies sorted out we needed backpacks and covers which we bought or borrowed from family and friends. We decided boots were too complicated to sort out, agreed it wouldn't rain much and settled to wear our well-loved trusty running shoes.




We drove to Wellington and had a week of final preparation before taking the car ferry across the Cook Strait to the South Island. After two nights in comfortable South Island motels we set out from Nelson on Jan 27th for Mapua where we would leave our car and travel by charter bus for 2 hours drive to the remote eastern end of the track - the mighty Heaphy awaited us!

Day 1 Brown's Hut to Perry Saddle

So here we are ejected from the comfort of our chartered trek explorer bus onto the pathway to Browns Hut, heavy packs at our feet and lunch to be eaten. Our first encounter was one of the insect type - sandflies - you know those small black pesky flies who love to bite bush-virgin skin? After a sudden scramble for the repellent we attempted a quick consumption of lunch quietly wondering to ourselves if we brought sufficient repellent for 4 days? As soon as we started our walk those flies disappeared much to our relief.



The Heaphy Track can be walked from either the western or eastern end. We chose the more common way to begin - from the east- but certainly not the whimp's route. Ahead of us on our first day lie some 17.5 km to walk - estimated to take 5 hours as it was all uphill. We were booked to stay at a hut at 880 metres elevation and on the way there reaching a point 912 metres-the highest point on the track.




Fortunately, the track climbs gradually as it was a century-old plus track for packhorses! However our 5 members of the 16 and under division decided that every hour we needed a "packs off stop". Given that they were the rate limiting step we older trampers gave in and enjoyed more of the mountain scenery as a result.




The day passed with ease and was interrupted by several mountain stream stops to refill water bottles. There were many means of crossing these streams and rivers from sturdy bridges to shakey 1- person- at- a- time swing bridges and a few almost- get -your- feet-wet crossings. Luke enjoyed some close encounters with wildlife especially the South Island robin.

The track was covered mostly by forest canopy so it was cool and pleasant for walking. The time passed easily marred only by our realization that our packs weighed more than we had anticipated. Maybe we had brought too much food after all.

The lookoff called Flannagan's Corner was definitely worth the 5 min diversion with sweeping views over the Aotere valley below. This was the point 912m above sea level. (remember we live at the beach)



Finally we arrived at the Perry Saddle Hut sweaty but excited about our planned dip in the swimming hole, dinner of dehydrated food and our first night in the hut. It was definitely quiet and without electricity very dark - great for sleeping - after a game of cards that is!

Day 2 Perry Saddle to James Mackay Hut 26 km.

So after a scramble to get the porridge cooked and consumed and a quick clean-up of the hut as requested by DOC, we packed up our belongings (including any garbage generated) and headed out for our big day's walk. This section of the track was our most ambitious - 26 km - downhill this time - but nonetheless daunting to those who wished to dwell on it. Our first landmark was Gouland Downs Hut 7 km away.

As we were some 860 m up the mist had rolled in from the previous evening and it was slightly precipitating as we set off. We donned our rain jackets and pack covers and off we went.
The track started off very rocky and tedious - not encouraging. However, as we were learning this track is renown for it's variation and abruptly morphed into a pleasant meander. The drizzle didn't last long either.



The children were especially keen to find a clear stream to fill their water bottles when we happened upon Quintina Creek. Although only 30 minutes or so from out starting point we had packs off stop to savour this amazing spot.





Spirits revived we headed on. The track now gave way to wide expanse of the Gouland Downs with tussock grass clearings and patches of beech trees along with displays of green moss. We made a quick stop to observe the famous gumboot pole where trampers have left their mementos for many years. John was a bit doubtful about the person who left his roller skate! Not far beyond here was the Gouland Downs hut - 7km under our belt.









The Gouland Downs is worth a mention as some very ambitious sheep farmers ventured into this area in the deep wilderness and actually raised sheep here in the early 1900's. How they managed to get sheep here without helicopters is beyond my imagination. Sadly the stock all died in a particularly hard winter and the area was recognised for it's unique flora and fauna in 1917 and designated as a scenic reserve.



After a quick stop to inspect Gouland Downs hut (built in 1935 - the oldest hut on the track) some of us explored the limestone caves. The track then led us onto our first of many swing bridges - albeit tentatively - as we were warned that only one person may cross at a time. Every step felt like your last and you were best not to look down but focus on the other side! By the end of the track they were even enjoyable. Our next landmark was Saxon Hut5.5 km away.







After the crossing the bridges we happened upon two people we had met in the hut the previous evening. We barged in on their lunch stop and managed a photo with them - Jacoba and Antoine.



We finally found the perfect spot for our own lunch just past the Saxon Hut with a total distance travelled that day nearly reaching the half-way mark of 12.5 km. Did I mention we were treated to a hot lunch every day courtesy of David's skill with our portable stove and billy? And Luke did enjoy his chicken soup even if he doesn't look it.



The remainder of the day was marked by the appearance of several large boulders, soft walking tracks through grasslands, an extensive boardwalk and a final sprint by our youngest trampers to get to the Mackay hut before the adults. Once again having a dip in the river after a sweaty day's walk was great even if the swimming hole was nicknamed "the coffin". Amazingly, Mackay hut boasted flush toilets -35 km 's walk from the nearest road!

Day 3 James Mackay Hut to Heaphy Hut

After a gruelling distance walked the previous day we were all anticipating an easy walk- a distance of 20.5 km only today. We were repeatedly told this was a day to enjoy with continuous downhill and amazing changing landscapes concluding at the Heaphy Hut on the mouth of the Heaphy River as it empties into the wild west coast. The neat thing was that we could actually see the river valley and even the hut we would be staying in that night - before we left the Mackay Hut that morning. (see below)




The children were up and ready so again we performed our breakfast ritual and clean up and set off. The weather was a bit cloudy but the forecast pinned to the wall of the hut by DOC was great. Once again the day was great.

The previous day's grassy downs and wetlands gave way very quickly to beech forest as the track follows the source of the Heaphy River. The taller and richer forest was appearing, which is typical of New Zealand west coast. We could see occasional glimpses of the river for most of our day.


This was truly a day of variety - bushy walking, beautiful moss lined tracks and many bridges and stream crossings. The streams were all fairly low in the middle of summer but we could imagine a different level of threat from these same streams at other times of the year when a flooded track is a real possibility with heavy rain. We easily maneuvered the rivers and bridges as well.





We were definitely becoming more fit and of course with each meal the packs lightened somewhat. (Except for David who claimed his pack kept getting heavier!) The children and adults both plodded on knowing the west coast beckoned.



The change in landscape meant we were on the lookout for indications of the coast's proximity - salt water in the air and the first nikau palms. Now for all you who don't know what nikaus are they are native New Zealand palm trees and are very common to the west coast. They look a bit like pineapples to me when they are small but they can grow to great heights. After river crossings galore we finally began to spot the occasional nikau.


The race was on now to get to the coast. We could smell the salt air and knew the famed Heaphy Hut was fast approaching. The only down side was the renown sand fly population of the west coast. Once again the younger members sprinted ahead and got to the hut first. With a bit of motivation from an overhead helicopter (medical evacuation passing through my mind) I hustled my pace along as well. Fortunately the chopper was dropping off supplies for the DOC staff and no advanced resuscitation was needed. ( See Heaphy Hut below)


David and John were keen to revive themselves and had a full on swim in the Heaphy River - cool, clear and refreshing from all reports. (sorry no photos were allowed!)

Chris got some great shots of the surrounds of the hut and nearby coast, even spotting a teepee on the far off sand!








Later that night was quite fun for everyone as we had a fire on the beach and marshmallows were provided by the DOC rangers. We had 6 different nationalities represented around the fire. (our entire 4 days we counted 47 people on the track including our group of 8 and several DOC employees)


The last excitement for the day was when we heard the cry of the female kiwi from the bush just before we went to bed. Luke and Adele rushed off in the direction of the bird's call and there she was on the path! (sorry no photo) Being a nocturnal bird it is very unusual to see a kiwi in the wild except of course when you are in a National Park miles from nowhere but having a great night under the stars!
PS The sand flies were manageable with long trousers and insect repellent - no worries mate.